2. ribbon cable
3. 16 by 2 lcd
4. 10k potentiometer or patience and a resistor
5. female barrel jack
6. 7805 power regulator
7. (2) 10uF capacitors
8. Atmega 328 with arduino bootloader preloaded onto the chip
9. 28 pin dip socket
10. (7) 2-pin 5mm pitch screw terminals
11. (4) diodes
12. 22 gauge solid core wire
13. ftdi serial to usb break out board
14. 16 MHz crystal
15. (2) 22 pF (that’s picofarad not microfarad) capacitors
16. 100 nF capacitor
17. (4) 10k resistors
18. (11) female pin headers
19. (17) male pin headers
20. also, breadboards never hurt
Tip #1 : Breadboard before you solder! Make sure your parts can work before you melt them to metal.
Tip #2 : Go through the pictures and read the tags.
Tip #3 : I chose a large perfboard for this project because of all the external connections. Make sure you leave room in your layout for the LCD.
Tip #4 : Analog inputs are on the right. Digital outputs are on the left. I did this because the analog pins are all on the right of the atmega chip.
Tip #5 : Start with the power supply. This will determine where you place other components.
Tip #6 : While soldering the male headers to the LCD ribbon cable, keep them set in the female headers. This will prevent them twisting around in the heated plastic.
Tip #7 : While every component is important, the 100nF capacitor and 10k resistor coming from the reset pin (pin 1) are absolutely vital! Your board will not program without them!
Tip #8 : Connect the LCD wires on the back side of the board! It will save a lot of space and make it possible to examine your board for more than five seconds without losing normal human cognitive ability.
Tip #9 : This power jack will save you space. I got the large one for the sake of shipping costs.